Titan Building Products Wood Post Anchor Kit 6" X 6"

I was surprised how sturdy and well built this post anchor was. It is very heavy steel. Worked like a charm for my post to anchor on my deck.

Very cool product. A little hard to pound into the bottom of your post but wow is it sturdy once installed.

Only gave it 4 stars because you have to hammer the last 2-3 inches into the post. I only had a two pound hammer so that could had been the issue; maybe get a five pound one. It works just like advertised.

The key to success is preparation, following Titan's directions and taking your time.Here's what I did with a new treated 6 x 6 and 4 x 4.1. Allowed the wood to dry-out slowly, laying on its side on wooden blocks in my garage and out of the direct sun. I rotated it every few days for about a month. If it was going to twist I didn't want to waste my time and money installing the base in it.2. Determined the end that provided no knots within the first 5-6 inches.3. Trimmed the end absolutely square.4. Carefully located center, drawing from corner to corner.5. Marked center with an awl.6. Drilled a pilot hole with an 1/8" drill7. Carefully aligned the hole saw in the pilot hole.8. Keeping the drill parallel with the column, drilled the hole, stopping occasionally to check alignment.9. Inserted the Titan anchor shaft into the drilled hole aligning it parallel and square with the column.At this point I needed to get creative on how to brace the column from moving and make it easy to strike with the sledge hammer.Instead of a 5-pound maul, I used a full-size 10 pound sledge hammer with a 36" handle. The full-size sledge provided much more force than the smaller maul.I placed the cut-off waste end of the wood against the 2x4 sole plate in my garage at a point where it was fastened with a bolt to the slab. Next, I placed the column itself against the cut-off piece and supported the end I would pound on a saw horse. Estimating this setup put the column on a 30-degree angle.10. First carefully aligning the hammer's head to the base with a practice swing, then using about a half arch swing, I began pounding the base in.11. Following every 2-3 blows, I checked alignment being sure the base was going in straight. I found it was easier to rotate the column between blows to correct alignment than it was to beat on the edge of the base.It took approximately 15 strikes to drive the base tight to column (ear plugs recommended). I was able to adjust minor out of square issues at this point.My primary concern during this point of the install was that the pounding might actually drive the garage framing off the slab. Whenever I stopped to check alignment, I also checked the wall. Thank goodness, it didn't budge.12. Installed the 4 bolts into the base, first drilling the recommended size pilot holes.13. Carefully positioned the column on the deck, being sure it was over the blocking.14. Installed the 8 screws through the base, deck and into the blocking, first drilling the recommended size pilot holes. I used stainless steel flat washers (seen in photo) to adjust plum.NOTE: Theses screws have a square socket. You will need the appropriate bit to fasten them!The space between the post and flange base was insufficient room to permit vertically aligning the screw gun with the screw. This caused the gun to slip out of the socket potentially stripping it.I found if you increased the torque on the screw gun (usually #2 setting) and applied as much downward force as possible, going slowly the screws did go in successfully.This approach worked perfectly for both the 4x4 and 6x6.

Sturdy but be prepared to use a sledgehammer. A small one will not do the trick. Get the covers also as you’ll probably miss and dent it.

I bought a bunch of these post holders but one was very used out of the 18 I bought. Won’t buy again.

Great product!! Used it on cement to hold up the posts for an outside shower. The contractor was surprised and pleased.