PREMIER GIDDS-163130 Shower Diverter For Three Handle

This piece is made similar to the other cartridge that was removed. I read the reviews of customers complaining of a tight fit. I found that if you used a flashlight to make sure the inside of the pipe is clear of debris, removed the new boot from the cartridge, lined it up vertically @ (basically 12 & 6). Slip the boot on your finger and place it inside of the pipe until it is secure in place. After it is in place. Use your flashlight to check the location of the grooves on the side of the pipe and cartridge and push it in. It should ease into place easily. If not, line them up and use a pair of pliers to push the cartridge in securely. Install the stem and other hardware and all systems should be a go. I did find trying to install this product like you normally would was an issue because the rubber boot fits snuggly and was thicker than the old one. The product is exactly the part needed for older pipes. Short Instructions on proper installation could save other buyers. I hope this helps someone.

This is the same diverter as a Kinston Brass KBRP131CD for less than they sell it for. I only needed the boot, but they are hard to come by and just as expensive as the whole diverter.This diverter is a bit of a pain to install and possibly even confusing if you have never done it before. To begin put a rag over the drain or close the pop-up if you have one (you don’t want to lose any parts down the drain). If you have an access panel, I would suggest removing it while you do this. At minimum you will need a screwdriver (usually Phillips’s head), large Slip Joint Pliers, Needle-nose pliers and a flashlight or trouble light.Remove the button and the screw for the handle. Take off the trim. Unscrew the locking tube with pliers. Grab the end of the handle extender shaft (if there is one) with pliers and pull it off. Grab the end of the diverter shaft and pull on it while rocking it slightly side-to-side. Eventually it will pop out, leaving a rubber boot behind. You will have to dig it out of there with Needle-nose pliers.There are 3 parts to the diverter. The diverter body, the boot and a pivot/stop ring. The ring allows the body to turn while limiting the travel so the diverter hole aligns with either the shower or tub outlets in the valve body. It is keyed on each side. Those keys slip into slots cut in the valve body. This prevents the ring from turning. You have to align the keys when you insert the ring into the body.The boot slips onto the end of the body and one of the holes in the boot should align with the diverter hole.Before you try to install it, you may want to lube the O-rings and boot with plumber’s grease. Don’t use anything else, it will break down the rubber and you will be doing this again sooner than you would like.Most showers I’ve used you turn the handle counter clockwise to turn the shower on. To orient the diverter to work this way, hold the ring and turn the shaft clockwise all of the way. Insert the diverter into the valve body with the OPEN diverter hole facing down, towards the tub outlet.Grab the end of the shaft with pliers, slip it into the hole and push really hard. It’s really the boot that makes it difficult to insert, keep pushing. Since the ring isn’t attached to the diverter body it will likely not go in all of the way so you won’t be able to thread the locking tube on. I used a deep socket on an extension to push it home. You might try using the locking tube itself, just flip it around. In either case, it is helpful to see if the keys are aligned while pushing it in. Once the ring is seated, screw the locking tube on and reinstall the trim and handle. I hope this helps, good luck!

Great price decent product

Had a very hard time finding this part locally. Able to fix my shower quickly and saved money on my water bill.

It is too big and the diverter handle turns hard.

Don’t buy this! If you’re buying this, chances are the valve isn’t even that old. This will only work for a short while and will tear again, and will need to be replaced… again.Bite the bullet and pay the price to replace entire valve with Kohler or Pfister or other reputable. The more you replace this part, the more frequently you’ll be replacing it. In 7 years since bath remodel it’s been replaced 5 times, the last 4 being during the pandemic. This last time only lasted 3-1/2 weeks.Just replace entire valve with something better.

Just what I needed to repair my low quality Premier brand faucet. No local place had it. Rubber end cap on end of the original diverter valve failed shortly after it was new, reducing water flow and causing neither tub nor showerhead to ever fully shutoff. I finally got around to repairing it. I did smooth the casting marks on this new part where it inserts into the rubber end cap boot to try to make this one last a little longer and not shred the rubber again. Don't forget to clean all the old pieces of rubber from your showerhead after this repair as they plug the holes and limit water flow. Easy to put in, Install rubber end cap first then use lubricant (I used laundry soap) and slide the valve into the end cap already installed in the brass chunk. Jenco wholesale shipped very quickly, I paid .99 to get faster shipping, well worth it, was here in 2-3 days. (Premier faucet gets 2 stars)UPDATE1-3-21: still working well, I think smoothing the casting flash so it doesn't tear the rubber seal is important.

Edit: Product failed withing 2 months. I think my mistake was I didn't use plumbers grease. It has to be well lubricated so the knob turns easily and doesn't damage the gaskets. Just installed my second one with grease, it turns a lot easier now. We will see how long it lasts.This product fit my Kingston brass tub. Worked great for about a month. And then the O-ring failed and I'm back to the same problem I started with. The shower sprays when I'm trying to fill the bath tub.