RF remote

So I wired this to open my garage. Basically, on my garage door opener the logic board for the wireless controller seems to have broken in some way, or I was not given the correct remote. As a result, I can not pair the remote I was given, and while I'd be willing to try other remotes they literally cost more than this product. The instructions are quite clear for this product, but here is how I set it up: 1. wired 12v positive to the anode, as per instructions. 2. wired 12v negative to cathode, as per instructions. 3. cleared codes as per step 1 4. held button until it did one quick flash between green and red. 5. paired remotes by holding button, clicking opener button, and letting go of both. Paired one remote at a time. 6. Tested relay by clicking remote. In momentary mode, you should hear the relay click when you press the remotes button and another click when you release the button. 7. wired terminal 1 on garage door opener to the normally closed(NC) terminal. 8. wires terminal 2 on the garage door opener to the common(COM). (Note, these wires could be flipped(1 on COM, 2 on NC) and it's fine. The goal is, these two wires must short when the button is pressed and open when the button is released). In case your garage opener is a bit different(some have more terminals), NC and COM are the two wires that go to the garage door button on the wall. For 12v power, I used an old 12v 3a power brick that went to a monitor or a laptop or something. I found it in my box of electronics cords and cables, but 12v power bricks/wall warts are pretty common and you could order one. Cut the barrel connector off and strip the wire(s) and you're in business. FYI, You probably don't need anything more than .5 amps or so, I just happened to have the 3 amp one on hand. Couple caveats: 1. The momentary relay is a lot slower than a button. The consequence of this is when I stop my garage door when it is going either direction, rather than stopping it will just start going the other way. I really don't care about this lol. 2. The plastic case is a pain in the a__ to separate. I ended up breaking the covers screw holes trying to separate it, which sucked. I ended up pulling it apart and effectively breaking the top part of the cover with needle noses.

These remotes work like a charm once you figure out how to connect them. The instructions were either way beyond me or just crap, but fortunately other reviewers left excellent instructions in their reviews. I’m sorry I don’t remember the reviewer’s name, but he comes up at the top of Amazon reviews for this product. My gratitude to him for figuring these out. Lastly, these have great range. They go through our exterior wall without any problems. I don’t even have to have direct line of sight. The receiver picks up the transmitter’s signal easily.

For the price I paid, this is less expensive than replacement remotes for my 20 year old garage door opener (still works great). I only gave 4 stars due to poor instruction on wire/install and the cover did not allow for wires to exit the housing (trimmed with nippers to open a path for wires). After deciphering the program procedure, the mode set to "jog" mimics my wired button on the wall. This allows me to bypass the internal wireless remote button of the opener. Being wired in parallel with my wall button terminals on the opener motor, the only aging factory remote button i have left and this new remote works together perfectly. I can't speak to the longevity of this controller or battery life of the remote, but very pleased at this point. Since the package comes with two remotes, I can put one on my motorcycle too! Very inexpensive option to make my old garage door last a bit longer.

You have to *slightly* pry out near both ends of both long sides (one side at a time) to get the top case off. You have to read the directions COMPLETELY to figure out why it isn't momentary. (My bad) I had to trim both the top case and the bottom case in order to have clearance for all 4 wires. But all in all, it is a nice little device. I'll probably be buying more of them.

This is for the single remote switch. Worst, the instructions are very confusing. So basically holding correct side up and L to R wiring is Terminal 1-5 we'll say. 1 on left outside edge is unused, 2 is a switch lead, 3 is a switch lead, 4 is Input NEG and 5 is Input POS. 2 & 3 are the switch leads and isolated from everything so are reversible and usable for Pos, Neg or technically 120v too. Only (closed) ON when contact is closed to power device. So a POS can be connected to 2 then the Load is on 3 and it will work when switch closes to complete circuit. It's Normally Open or off, If power fails and it was on, it will open and turn off staying off till remote turns it on again. Good for a light for example, power fails and comes back on, light stays off. Depending on application most loads should run through a relay with this as the trigger to Terminal 86, and connected to the ignition relay or some other master switch. So IGN controlled relay or fusebox IGN tap to control an IGN relay must be on, which powers this remote switch on from Terminal 87 (Load) of a relay, and enables this Input and remote operation. When power goes out(IGN off) Relays OPEN cutting power and Load(this switch) is deenergized and will stay off till turned on again. If you want to control multiple devices at the same time with this remote switch. Connect Pos load of this switch to the Terminal 86 of a Relay then your 5 loads etc connect to Terminal 87 of the relay not to exceed the Amperage rating of the relay. I don't recommend this as the master switch due to radio interference etc. Use a physical switch/relay of some sort. Relay common wiring-- Terminal 30 is fused battery feed, 86 is the trigger source ie this switch or a toggle switch or the IGN trigger etc, 87 is the Load like Pos to your lights or whatever. 87 is the relay ground. With the Terminal 30 connected to battery and 87 to GND. Terminal 86 gets Pos and closes relay to 87 the load. Your device turns on

The unit itself is unimpressive, but it can be used for all kinds of projects not just toggling things on and off. This can be used to remote start atv's and probably a car too, but that's a little more complicated unless you leave the key in and turned to accessory/run. An atv is easier, as you would just wire the ignition to always be set to run, and setup a momentary kill switch. The practicality of remote starting a dune buggy, gokart or dirtbike.. is probably more eccentric than convenient.. but that's just the tip of the iceberg. Other ideas that come to mind: Use with Nichromium wire to Remote launch model rockets Ignite fireworks/pyrotechnics Cut rope to trigger "magic tricks" Use proper voltage rated relays to: Turn on/off lights Toggle inverter power Trigger alarms or SOS becon Use winch from distance, or driver seat Control dump trailer Turn compressor on/off Disconnect vehicle battery Control fog machine Trigger prepared prank devices Activate Halloween props Seriously, it'll do a lot if you set it up, and wire it right.

The good part was I could return them. They did not work for the application I desired which is what they were intended to do. Instructions were in broken English and the diagrams were not helpful. The interweb showed multiple people having to wire these up differently and no mater what I did they did not work.

This is a great remote control it came with latched contact programed but to reprogram to momentary was very simple and the range was awesome. Bottom line it is great and the price I think was excellent.

Very easy installation. Before installing, you have to test first. Signal is very strong so it works more than 10 meter distance. Excellent product.

It works, its great.....but again the instructions are very vague and only of use if you have fitted one before! But it comes complete with batteries, I do not suggest this is fitted by anyone who has not got some sort of electronics background because it is not clearly marked as to what wire goes where and if you are wiring it into a vehicle (as I have) you really need to know what you are doing.

Yo lo he utilizado para cerrar el circuito del video portero y así abrir la puerta a distancia cada vez que llaman a la puerta, pero tambié puedes utilizarlo para encender una bombilla o activar cualquier otro elemento eléctrico hasta 10A 250VAC. El rf se alimenta con un transformador de 12v NO INCLUIDO y tiene dos modos de funcionamiento: 1.Se activa al pulsar el mando y se desactiva al soltarlo (modo JOG). 2.Se activa al pulsar el mando una vez y se desactiva al pulsarlo de nuevo (modo LATCHED). A través de un botón se puede seleccionar el modo de funcionamiento del relé así como añadir más mandos a distancia. El relé puede conectarse en modo siempre abierto o siempre cerrado según necesites.Como punto negativo comentar que el alcance no es elevado (unos 25 metros, es posible que más pero no he tenido oportunidad de comprobarlo), que las instrucciones vienen en Inglés y además indican que la tensión de alimentación puede ser de 6, 12 o 24V, si no conectas el aparato a 12 VDC NO FUNCIONA, en un primer lugar lo he conectado a 6VDC y se enciende la luz de POWER pero la tensión no es suficiente para que se active el relé. Lógicamente, no es un producto para profanos en la materia.

Funktioniert super. Ich würde es jederzeit sofort nachkaufen, wenn es defekt wird.

Ora in casa tutto avrà un telecomando! fantastico! non ditelo a nessuno ma mi scocciavo di alzarmi per andare ad aprire il cancello dal citofono... mi sono innanzitutto consultato con un esperto per capire quale fosse il Relè telecomandato più adatto al mio caso... l'ho installato (non nego che ci vuole un pò di pratica anche se il prodotto è completo di guida illustrata anche in ITALIANO) e adesso da qualunque stanza mi trovi posso aprire il cancello dal mio telecomando. FANTASTICO! SUPER CONSIGLIATO! PREZZO INCREDIBILE! MARCA AFFIDABILE! ne prenderò altri...sto pensando di acquistare quelli per 220V per le luci dei corridoi e delle stanze da letto...